@Rishikesh...Emptiness

I picked up my camera bag and started walking. The idea was to trek along the direction of the river and find a secluded river front all for my own. However, as I foot slogged I realized I was not alone, a pet dog from the place where I was camping decided to walk along with me. He followed me throughout my unknown expedition. Once in a while he would overtake me and sprint along a path of his choice, and then as if realizing his extent, he would turn back to see whether I was following.

We both equally appreciated each other’s instinct. Sometimes I choose a turn and he followed suit and at times he would lead me to a terrain of his choice and I was glad to abide.

This mutually guided course finally led us to a large rocky riverfront as we descended a foothill. The flowing river had created a bed of white sparkling sand. Polished rocks, maybe brought along by the river, marked the boundary of the beach. I climbed a boulder that was closest to the river and settled myself. Realizing that I am in a mood to relax, the dog joyfully came hopping along and sat alongside me.

The rock provided a beautiful vantage point with an emphasis on nature. A perfect ambiance for meditation, I was overwhelmed with thoughts contemplative. I closed my eyes and let loose those intriguing questions that have refused to leave me for a while, hoping this moment would magically bless me with the answers. I expected extraordinary out of each splash of air, I anticipated the sound of the river to tune my life. My past flashed on the canvas of my closed eyes. It was occasionally substituted by the spurts of my expectation from the future.

I only grew tense, definitely not what I expected.

I opened my eyes. the dog was still beside me, by now asleep with his body leaning towards my thigh. While I have been trying too hard all this while, he was just enjoying the moment. While I was trying to analyze, explain, find, explore and what not, he was… he was not doing anything at all. While I was busy with past and future, he was engulfed in the present.

And I took inspiration from this friend.

Kashmiri Kahwah... I found my elixir of life

I have always been an ardent fan of green tea and while in Kashmir I discovered its perfect and beautiful avatar, Kahwah. Kahwah is made with kashmiri green tea added with a tantalizing mix of spices. I remember myself taking 2 km walk 2 times everyday to get a perfect cup of it, the one with chopped almonds and whole cardamoms floating in it  ...ahh I love it. 

While traditional method can be found here, I have discovered a makeshift preparation of the kahwah which is not bad either...

for a single cup..

1 teaspoon green tea.

1 small stick cinnamon

2 cardamoms

1 clove

a leaflet of tulsi (optional)

bring the water to boil with all the spices in it. Put off the flame, pour the tea and let it steep for 2 mins. Strain. 

copyright.. captain 'cook' Abhinav :-)

Srinagar: A Royal Capital

First of all, it saddens me that a place as beautiful as Kashmir has to be a witness to cross nation political disturbances for past two decades. Srinagar, being the capital had to bear the maximum brunt. Although the spirits are yet not that lively, thankfully much of its charm still remains for the traveller.

The word Kashmir is an ancient Sanskrit word which literally means Land of Kashyap Rishi. The Buddhist Mauryan emperor Ashoka is often credited with having founded the old capital of Kashmir, Shrinagari, now ruins on the outskirts of modernSrinagar. Kashmir was long to be a stronghold of Buddhism. (wikipedia)

Shikara on Nageen Lake

Flower selling shikara

The Lakes of Srinagar -

Srinagar is the city of lakes, Dal lake being the biggest and the most important. Much of the cities life revolves around the 26 kms of non-circular circumferance of this Lake. However allmost the entire town and the tourist flock head out to this lake (especially in the evenings) making it slightly crowdy at times. Recently, a smaller but more serene Nageen Lake has started to catch up in terms of attraction. Nageen Lake hosts some niche houseboats and a stay is definitely recommended here rather then the Dal Lake.

View from Nageen lake

Dal Lake in evening

Tips to enjoy the lakes -

• You have to, have to and have to ride on the Shikara. But when and how?
• Preferably ride around the sunrise or sunset. These are the times that will give you the most finest experience.
• Instead of roaming around the Dal Lake, take a ride from Nageen Lake to Dal. It would be a 2 hour approx ride and would sail you through the authentic and amazing lake centered life of Srinagar.
• Shop till you drop sink. Salesman on Shikaras will float up to you selling their wares - pashmina, silver jwellery, flowers etc. And theres aa floating market too.
• Enough of the royal ride. Row a Shikara.

And the gardens - 

The Mughal Emperors shared their fondness with the place by building some fabulous terraced gardens including Shalimar Nishat and the Chashmeshahi..However the one that stands out and is a must visit is Pari Mahal. It was built by Dara Shikoh,, the eldest son and favoured successor of Shah Jahan (who built the taj Mahal), as a Sufi School. The garden being on the hilltop, offers a fabulous look the town below.

View from Pari Mahal

bunch of boys at a view point in Pari mahal

View from my room... Srinagar

day 1 at Srinagar started with an awesome FTL houseboat experience.
FTL?
First Time in Lifetime :-)
I am so overwhelmed by the serenity of its surrounding, I seem to be clearly underestimating other exiting things I am going to do in Kashmir.

Where in Delhi?

This morning I trekked my way to Bhardwaj Lake, hidden deep within the premises of Asola Wildlife Sanctuary. Exploring this Sanctuary was on my wish list for a while now and finally I accumulated guts to drive 40 kms to this spot and then trek 5 kms on foot to reach this Lake. My efforts were worthy indeed as the site of this lake and the peace of its surroundings were overwhelmingly soothing.

I attach the google route below for people interested. 

Preferred sesson - winters. 

preferred time - morning :-)

 

View Larger Map

Lansdowne: 5 frames of tranquility

One of the best sunrises that I have ever witnessed was at Lansdowne.

Credited to be the nearest hill station from Delhi, the town wont have the typical touristy attractions. However it has peace in abundance. A cantonment town, Lamsdowne offers a welcome weekend break from Delhi. Much of the towns attractions (St. Mary's Church, few temples) can be wrapped up on a uphill walk to one of the viewing points called 'Tip n Top' view. This view point offers a spectacular view of the valleys beneath.

However the real fun is when you get up 5 in the morning amidst chilling winds and start your trek to this view point to see the sunrise. I did the same. The trek straight from the bed seemed two fold difficult. Slowly, i had to shed extra layers of cloths I had on me. I remember I was almost breathless when I reached on top, but it was the view that took my breath away. 

This experience made me realize how beautiful and special each new day is...

Good eye for the sky....

Monsoons are round the corner. Once more sky will host an exhibition of numerous abstract art and paintings. I am ready to play the reporter :-)

Miksang @Workplace

Even my workplace is on move!

Sounds exciting, isn't it? But its just the campus move really. However it gave me a good reason to look at the place with a good contemplative eye for a while in order to come up with a photoblog dedicated to it. here is the link to the flickr slideshow...

http://www.flickr.com//photos/83547016@N06/sets/72157630759226664/show/

A Search in Secret India – Book Review

At last his lips open and he says gently:

“You say I. ‘I want to know.’ Tell me, who is that I?”

Puzzled, I point a finger towards myself and mention my name.

“And do you know him?”

“All my life!” I smile back to him.

“But that is only your body! Again I ask, ‘Who are you?’”

- Excerpt from Paul Bruntun’s conversation with Maharishi

For westerners, India has always been the most sought after destination for seeking the spiritual. The mystical essence of India and far advanced exploration of consciousness has attracted many well known philosophers and high thinkers from all parts of west. When Paul Bruntun landed at Alexandra dock, Bombay, in early 1930s, he had a similar quest. But his intent differed in the sense that he not only wanted to seek the spiritual, but probe it as well.

This book is a search in secret India, secret in the sense that it examines India that had been hidden from the outer world for thousand of years. What resulted was a tale of remarkable spiritual adventure which Paul so elegantly chronicled in this book. The content of the book details his journeys to various corners of India in search of individuals with genuine spiritual insight. Amongst many people he came across, Paul describes some of the outstanding meetings in details. The book includes his interactions with yogis from north and south India, proclaimed sages and spiritual heads of various religions.

The remarkable thing about this book is the way these interactions have been presented to the reader. Being a thoroughbred journalist, Paul effectively uses his skills to probe the self proclamation of these sages and events with critical impartiality. However, he so efficiently succeeds in never judging an event and leaves it to the readers to take the final call.

Best travel stories are the ones which completes a circle and ends at home. Paul ultimately manages to get an end to his quest and find peace at Arunachala, with Sri Ramana Maharishi. The chapters which document his interactions with Maharishi are cult classics and cannot be justly praised in any reviews. This book holds the credit of enlightening the west about the teachings of Sri Ramana Maharishi. And its been widely known that the ideology highlighted in this book not only transformed Paul’s life forever, but have had similar influence on many others. Nearing the end of the book, Paul summarizes his experience from his journey, giving the book a superb metaphysical climax.

This book is a true travel classic and one of the greatest in the genre of spiritual travel.

Bye it, read it, absorb it and live it. This masterpiece by Paul explores infinite expenses of transcendental India that readers of any generation would find exciting to read.

In the midst of chaos

I was at Delhi Haat today. Perfect flavour of traditional and contemporary Indian culture permeated the market as usual. But I was not here to shop, I was looking for some offbeat clicks for my camera and off the several I clicked, this one seems to stand out. 

I never saw this statue alone. Even the first time I noticed it, it was in conjunction with the chaos around it. It immediately came to my mind that if I pick this statue of Buddha from the place where its sitting right now, its immediately going to loose its magnificence. I would not want to take the Buddha home and keep it on some quite corner of my house. The chaos at the backdrop actually accentuate the meditative pose of Buddha. As if he is reiterating one of his famous sayings..... CHAOS IS INHERENT IN ALL COMPOUNDED THINGS. STRIVE ON WITH DILIGENCE.

Now Delhi has a local friend.. :-)

I came across guys at www.rentalocalfriend.com trough one of the magazines articles about them. I was immediately fascinated by the idea that they have so successfully managed to spread across. The site provides a resource through which we can interact with appropriate local references while we are traveling and thereby explore the cities much in our own ways. To quote the website - "a different travel philosophy for everyone who wants to be a traveler, not a tourist".

It took me microseconds to decide that I want to be part of the RentALocalFriend's culture. Interestingly when I contacted Nathalia she told me that one of the prerequisites to be a local friend is to have a short welcome video of yours shot in your city. So here it goes....

Delhi Detours - Sunday evenings at Rajpath

Delhi has been home to me for 11 years now. I have grown up in the city and have at the same time seen it grow up in its various facets. Through these years I have explored the city extensively (or at least I think so..). My forthcoming posts would be an attempt to document (or pixelate)  these experiences, which  I believe are unique in their own rights.

Sunday evenings are magical at Rajpath. The dusk brings with it a beautiful ambiance of colors.

 

Sky blue ambiance perfectly sets up the mood of picnicking people. 

The Line of Control

Just as the sun was about to set, the rays converged above the presidential suite. Does it look like an eye?

Kausani.. In the rainbow of mountains

© Abhinav Sharma

My fascination with sunrises continues and it takes me this time to Kausani, a hill station in the remote stretch of Uttrakhand. A couple of days stay here at the Gandhi ashram was a wonderful experience. However an early rise on one of these days to witness the sunrise happens to be the highlight of the tour. 

I didnt had the sun in my direct view and perhaps this was the advantage. For the emerging light happened to graze the waves of mountains with vivid colours. The red morning was swiftly sweeping away the blues of the night and I stood the witness of this cosmic play. In a bunch of seconds, I have seen so much beauty that I can behold it for a lifetime.

Journey is my destination

Setting forth on to land unknown
aversions grazed and curiosity grown;

Acquiring the road as a welcome mat
all I have is a blue jeans and a crumpled hat;

Climbing the mountains, diving into sea
didn't knew best things in the world are actually free;

What’s the purpose? What’s the aim?
I lose these questions as I loose my name;

Saw people looking at me with a surprise look
I tell them, I am living the pages of a fairy book;

As the sun leaves me with a troupe of cloud
they think i am lost, but the truth! I just found;

When I look back, its all a pale blur
except for that one moment, when I parted ways with her;


and I still remember my words -

Few things in life are beyond justification,
let me go beloved! Journey is my destination.

Its official... India's best chai

view of the ganges from the cafe

My search for a 'ideal' café ends here at The Office in Rishikesh. While I have the best ever masala chai in one of my hands, the other hand is all full with their unique apple and chocolate banana samosas. The wall of the balcony (overlooking the Ganges) is pasted with their tea & coffee menu. The contents each are like different methods of Nirvana... choose whichever you like or mix it :-). The view from the balcony is awesome and very peaceful. 
Being at the cafe and just staring at the Ganges, I always feel very content, self satisfied and all good about myself. Its just that next time when I go there, I will try to be in similar state of mind but without having any samosas by my side :-)

One life for this experience??? I am on..

On my way to Gurukul...

A quick post dedicated to the kids at Parmarth Niketan, Rishikesh. I remember how my request for a pose was turned down by this kid and he slowly shied away from the scene. I still managed few candid shots of which this is the one I like in perticular.

Silhouetted against the river.. Rishikesh

I folded my jeans and planted my feet in the shivery waters of the Ganges. The contact sparked a rush of blood upwards into my body, unsettling the dogmas that I carry within. My credos certainly could not bear the purity of the moment and shattered like a glass pane. Suddenly, I could see through my identity.

A positive start! I am sure.

Ganges manifests a grandeur at Rishikesh which is not visible anywhere else throughout her course. Perhaps this happens because it is here that the river liberates her self from the rough course of the hills and prepares for a joyride into the plains. The river actually celebrates the battles won in the Himalayas. She indeed looked cheerful and I intended to utilize that moment and initiate a dialog with her, maybe find out few of her godly secrets.

The water was gleaming in the setting sun. The river seemed to be full of pride and why not, for the awareness of source and destination was reflected in every drop of twinkling water.

Did she not know that sooner her existence is about to perish into the vast sea?

I reckon that she did, but the very joy of the present moment superseded the premonitions. She seemed to be completely ignorant of the future. Actually she was too engrossed in playing with the fading sunlight then to think about anything else. I was clueless as to how the river manages such grace so spontaneously. All I could do was to envy her. A bit confused, my attention was diverted to a bunch of rapids at the far end of the stream. The river was perhaps laughing at my confusion. “Can I ever have her secret that makes her so free and easy?” I thought within myself. Being a meager identity as compared to the river, it was best for me to surrender myself in order to find those answers. I pleaded to her, “Help me to be like you.”

The river kept flowing and didn’t respond. Or did it?

I melted further into the river determined not to leave without an answer. A gush of wind passed over. The wind, moving downstream paced the flow of water sort of emphasizing the flow. Quite elegantly, the river had communicated its secret to me. It was the FLOW.

I wasn’t completely mindful of my realization until the river started talking to me…

“I originate from a source hidden deep within the valleys. Although in oblivion, those glaciers are the source of all my charm. Thumping into grueling terrain, and crashing onto rocks, I get the liberty of letting out myself only once I flow into the plains. All the while, religiously, I keep flowing.

From your point of view, I flow towards the ocean. This is ignorance on your part. The truth is, I JUST FLOW.

From your point of view, my destination is the ocean. This is again ignorance. My friend! The truth is, JOURNEY IS MY DESTINATION.

Like me, you have a source hidden deep within yourself. Your outer skin, the body and the senses might resemble a river and its branches. Connect with your source and let the river flow. Celebrate the numerous blessings that are bestowed upon you while you flow. And as you plunge into the vast sea of death, don’t be dejected, for the life cycle will repeat itself. The spirits rises to heaven simply to pour down again as the rain livens up the river afresh.”

A drop of dew hit my eyelids and made me come out of myself. I realized it actually started to rain. Fresh shot of life for the river and for me.

I chased the sun... this time to Varanasi

Straight out of my blanket, I am heading towards the river. My foggy itinerary is to walk along the Ghats of Varanasi and witness the sunrise that will happen somewhere in between. One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world is about to behold another day in its vivacious life. The sunrays that had just hit the holy land had been the trigger of life for almost 3500 years now. 
The morning sun travels fast and it’s conflicting to watch it from the place where time has almost stood still. But this day too, shall pass and this holy city may or may not grow in appearance but it will definitely grow within, in spirits.
I wish to be part of its history through my photographs.

Beachy Head - a walk to remember

Somewhere in the summers of 2010. 

 I was a bit scared. 

It took me days to settle in the city life of England. A trip all alone to the countryside required a bit of self-convincing. Thankfully, I am good at self-convincing tricks. I set off from my home for the trip. My skepticism was further nourished as I boarded the double-decker bus. I was the first one to board the bus and even the driver greeted me with astonishment as to why I am so early. However, my grit soon overpowered my skeptics and I congratulated my self for being the first one on the bus and been able to grab the front most seat of the upper deck.

This bus by Brighton and Hove Coach Company is a special summer initiative for tourists, which will take them on a day’s trip to and fro between Brighton and Eastbourne, two coastal towns in south England. At 5 bucks all inclusive, it was a fabulous deal. The 2 hour ride is literally parallel to the sea front, cruising along the chalk heads of southEngland. I was immensely excited to see the first glimpses of English countryside, hoping a refreshing change from the hassle of London.

And then the bus finally started rolling over Brighton sea front towards the country side. The view throughout the journey was breathtaking. A narrow one lane road pierced through the British farms and grazing grounds taking us towards Peachhaven, Seaford and Seven Sisters Country Park, a series of chalk cliffs by the English Channel. Thereby, the road floated on top of cliffs, parallel to the English Channel. I finally boarded off at Beachy Head, the highest of the cliffs. It was here that I met the most beautiful person in my life, ME.

As I stepped down the bus, I realized that the engine of the bus had to really do little labor to move it. The fierce wind blowing around the area was enough to ward of the bus, let alone a person. I somehow managed to stand still and roamed 360 to get a panoramic view of the area. The lush green grasses along the road kept swirling around with each stroke of heavy brisk air, perfectly imitating the nearby ocean. The blue sky would have been left out in the act had it not made friends with the clouds. The impartial wind gave the sky its share of animation in terms of ever moving clouds. It was bliss to watch.

While I was strolling along the cliffs one after the other, the experience was out of this world. Walking against the wind, the sound of the thrashing breeze against my body competed with the sound of water hitting the cliff (did I compare myself to the cliff ??). There were numerous couples sitting along the edges looking towards the ocean, comparing its depth with that of their love. The air hardly smelt of romance. It was too fierce to induce romantic feelings, but then maybe true romance is fierce. I smiled and moved on.

Tired of the trekking, I sat for a while along the edges and formally introduced myself to the ocean. I received no reply. I did not complain. For its infinite vastness and depth, the sea would take some time to absorb my messages. At a distance, ocean’s blue merged with that of the sky, negating any visual difference. Visually, I was on top of sky. I wanted to stop here, at this very particular moment, forever. 

Make me a lighthouse rooted at this very heaven on earth. I would peacefully radiate forever, attracting more and more travelers towards me.